HastproTrucks- Your Source for Unique Downloadable Books Plus Outdoor Accessories, Tools & Equipment

Rear disc brakes wore out too fast & began dragging when the pads & rotors were replaced

Wed 11 Nov 2009 11:37:13 AM GMT

I had a Chevy Blazer that seemingly all of a sudden prematurely wore out and began metal to metal contact between the rear disc brake pads and the rotor. Naturally the rotors were ruined as there is very little metal that can be taken off them during turning I replaced the rotors and brake pads and noted that I had a harder than normal time collapsing the caliper piston far enough to install the new brake pads.

These hard to collapse pistons and premature wearing out of the brake pads set off alarm bells inside my head, so I made sure to test drive the Blazer a short distance at slow speeds when we were finished with replacing the rotors and pads. When I started the test drive, I could feel the brakes holding back on the Blazer, and after only a couple of miles of driving the rotors were getting very hot.

I then disassembled the rear brakes and found that the pads were holding tight against the rotors with the brake pedal not being depressed, and had to be pryed apart using considerable force. I began the chore of diagnosing why the brakes were not releasing as they should, and deducted that the pistons not collapsing as they should had something to do with it.

I quickly eliminated the rubber brake lines having a flap inside them simply by thinking, both of the rear brakes were doing the same thing and also all the rear pads wore out prematurely. Having a flap inside a brake line would cause a problem with only one brake. The brake proportioning valve could also be eliminated because there was no problem with all four brakes holding as they should when stopping and there was apparently no problem with the front disc brakes dragging. In essence, the brake proportioning valve is a shuttle valve that comes into play when there is a problem with fluid delivery to either the front brakes or the rear brakes.

Upon thinking back to when I first started collapsing the caliper pistons in preparing to install the new brake pads, I remembered that the pistons collapsed easily at first then became hard before they were collapsed far enough so that the new pads could be installed. This more or less eliminated the entire system, including the master cylinder, because a problem with fluid returning to the master cylinder would likely make the collapsing of the pistons hard to do from the beginning, not just at the end of the collapsing.

All these deductions left the calipers as the culprits. Since the calpers were made of aluminum and brake fluid attracts water, impure water at that, the portion of the piston bore on the fluid side of the piston o-ring could possibly be pitted up and corroded from electrolysis (my deduction). Rebuilding the calipers would not be practical in a home repair situation because honing aluminum smooth is very different from honing cast steel or cast iron and, if the bore was pitted, probably would be impossible. If the caliper bore was pitted, then machining it back smooth and refitting it with an oversized piston would be necessary to rebuild the caliper.

I purchased two rebuilt rear calipers and installed them with no problem encountered in installing them along with the new brake pads and rotors. A short test drive revealed no brake dragging or overheating, so I made a longer test drive by returning the caliper cores to the parts store using the Blazer. Along the way I even tried hard braking when traffic would allow. There was absolutely no problems with dragging and overheating and the brakes worked very good.

Note: The front disc brakes use a caliper made from cast iron or cast steel so the problems encountered with aluminum calipers would likely never happen or would be a very long time in happening.

Testing fuel pressure on a 1996 and up Chevy Blazer, Sonoma or S-10 pickup truck

Thu 1 Oct 2009 7:59:41 PM GMT

There are many forum & blog posts and advice telling folks that a high pressure fuel system, such as found on many Chevrolets from 1996 and up, can be tested for pressure loss by pinching off the return line while the system is at full pressure. As a matter of fact, several tool manufactures make a tool to pinch off lines, but pinching off the return fuel line is not an effective way to check for pressure loss in a high pressure fuel system except to possibly check for fuel pump pressure loses if done right.

Since the fuel line to the engine begins at the fuel pump and ends at the fuel pressure regulator/injector(s) and the fuel gauge attaching port is located in that line, a leak either at the fuel pump or at the pressure regulator will drop the pressure on the gauge. Pinching off the return fuel line alone will show you absolutely nothing in regards to a faulty fuel pressure regulator!

Note: Gasoline is dangerous, especially pressurized gasoline. Fire or an explosion could result from contact with a heat source. A very capable person or service technician only, should work around or with any open or pressurized containers of gasoline including fuel systems.

The first place to start checking is at the fuel pressure gauge port on the supply gas line located in the engine compartment, and with a properly calibrated pressure gauge. Turn the key on and let the fuel pump run until it stops (about 2 seconds). The pressure on the gauge should settle and read somewhere inside the range of pressures that a service manual for your vehicle/engine states. This pressure should also hold for an extended period of time. If the pressure builds and holds at the proper pressure by only turning the key on, no problem is indicated as far as the fuel system's fuel delivery capability is concerned.

The best place to check for a leaky fuel pump is a toss up between either blocking the return line and building up the pressure to above fuel pressure regulator relief pressures, or by installing a hand pump and a pressure gauge at the inline filter or another place the fuel line can be separated.

To adequately check for fuel pump leakback by pinching off the return fuel line and because the fuel pressure regulator normally holds pressure on the supply fuel line, the pressure must be built up to above the regulator's preset pressure holding capability with the return line blocked to adequately check for fuel pump leakback. Otherwise, faulty diagnosis of the fuel pump can result from the regulator's normal action.

To test for fuel pump leakback at the filter or another place the line can be separated, on the section of line going back to the fuel pump, rig up both a pressure gauge and a hand pump that will hold pressure when not pumping. Pump the hand pump filled with a little gasoline until the gauge reads something like 20-30 lbs. See if the pressure will hold there for several minutes. The vehicle's fuel pump is not the fuel system leak problem if the pressure holds, and is the problem or a problem if the pressure does not hold.

If there are no problems with fuel pressure loss at the fuel pump or in the line from the pump to the engine, and the fuel pump builds adequate pressure, the fuel pressure regulator operation can be observed by attaching an appropriate pressure gauge to the fuel pressure testing port.

With the help of a helper, simply turn the key on and the fuel pump will run for two seconds. The pressure should read and hold (after a few seconds) about 58-61 lbs on many of these vehicles (check an appropriate manual for the specific minimum/maximum fuel pressure on your model car/truck and engine) by the time the fuel pump stops. Note this pressure reading and then turn the key off while observing the pressure gauge, the pump should again run for two seconds and the fuel pressure should momentarily climb above the pressure observed on the first run of the fuel pump. If the fuel pressure regulator is working as it should, the pressure should settle back to the correct fuel pressure for your particular engine and hold there (should be the same pressure as noted before).

If the fuel pressure falls below the minimum for your particular vehicle/engine, or continues to fall completely out, the fuel pressure regulator is probably defective.

Tip: An old R12 type set of AC gauges with at least one good gauge makes a perfect fuel pressure testing gauge. They are easily calibrated and the hose will fit the pressure testing port as well.

An in vehicle emergency kit everyone needs to consider

Mon 15 Jun 2009 7:53:39 PM GMT

Getting stranded far away from home or in remote areas is a very real possibility in our vehicular travels today. Getting a ride or even help cannot be counted on either (may even be unwanted help), and there is always a possibility of the lack of cell phone service in many remote areas.

I visit or travel through such areas several times a year and I have become temporarily stranded while there. I do not go unprepared!

So, you're stranded in the backside of nowhere in the scorching heat of summer or the freezing cold of winter. A survival kit of sorts only makes good sense. I personally carry a duffel bag inside my vehicle(s) with an assortment of the necessities to endure such a thing, especially if I am traveling into remote areas or during mid summer/winter.

Included in that duffel bag or along with that duffel bag is:

Extra insulated clothing, including socks & boots

Fire starters with matches/lighter

Hatchet

Spare flashlight and/or small LED lantern, w/extra batteries for both

Pillow & small air mattress (especially good for sleeping in rear of SUV)

Small emergency tent & 2 emergency space blankets (in case the vehicle is in an unsafe or very unlevel area - can also be used for shade if needed)

Extra water (1-2 gallons)

Extra food (canned and/or packaged in vacuum packaging), coffee, mixable fruit drink, etc.

Small portable stove (like the one sold on this site). small pan and/or pot, small coffee pot, stainless steel cup

Extra knife (camping knife with spoon, fork, etc.)

Mosquito repellant

Folding stool and/or chair

Along with all this stuff, I normally also carry a variety of tools & emergency mechanical equipment so I can usually solve any mechanical breakdowns well enough to get back to civilization.

Always be prepared for the unexpected and you can deal with it with relative ease!

Severly bent utility trailer axle shade tree style repair. Out of Pocket Cost: 3-5 cents

Tue 2 Jun 2009 5:07:35 PM GMT

A few days ago, my neighbor and I corrected toe and camber on his small utility trailer. Having hung a stump or something with the trailer axle, bending it rearward and upward, the toe and camber was severely off on the wheels. Since I am trained & experienced in wheel alignment & frame straightening, I took the lead and called the shots.

Since that particular trailer was lightweight, we turned the trailer upside down to gain better access to the axle, adjusted the wheel bearings to remove any slack, and aired up the tires evenly. We then placed small pieces of boards etc. under the trailer bed to level the axle to the rest of the world as well as possible. The axle was also made of lightweight steel, so we could get by with using a minimum of something to push from to correct the bend in the axle.

We used a very capable chain secured around each end of the axle as close to the wheels as possible for that something to push from, and used a bottle jack & screw jack to do the pushing. Correcting toe back to within reason first, we pushed at the center of the bend and worked outward in both directions from the center of the bend as needed to prevent collapsing the hollow axle. We also straightened the wrinkled flanged portion of the axle as we went using a large adjustable wrench, hammer & drift.

When toe was within reason, we moved the chain and jack to where the push would correct the bend direction that was causing camber to be off. Pushing in the same fashion as with the toe correction above, we corrected camber to within reason.

Now, toe can be set pretty much exactly without the axle being exactly level but camber cannot be accurately set without the axle being level end to end. The next step then required us to exactly level each wheel level to each other. We used a very straight straight edge, long enough to reach across from wheel to wheel, and a common level placed on that straight edge to accomplish getting the wheels perfectly level with each other and the rest of the world (redid the boards & other shims under the bed of the trailer to exactly level the wheels).

I provided a digital angle gauge and very straight piece of aluminum just long enough to reach from one side of the steel wheel bead area to the other side of the bead area. 90 degrees would signify perfectly perfectly vertical so we used .10-.25 degrees departure from 90 degrees as our positive camber setting. In other words, to allow the trailer to be loaded and the camber to stay within reason, the small lean of each tire/wheel assembly due to camber must be inward at the bottom of each tire/wheel assemble (with the trailer turned upright on it's wheels, of course). Positive camber is when the wheel leans outward at the top and inward at the bottom with the vehicle or trailer upright (a very very small, almost invisible lean).

We again set up to further correct camber with our chain & jack, and pushed in the appropriate area of the middle of the axle until each wheel's camber amount was within the .10-.25 degree positive range. Remember, 90 degrees is perfectly vertical so 90 degrees plus or minus .10-.25 degree must be used. In other words, a reading of 89.90 degrees to 89.75 or 90.10 to 90.25 degrees, depending entirely on what direction your digital angle gauge is turned, would be the target camber reading. Camber correction for correcting more or less camber on just one side can be accomplished by simply moving the jack the appropriate direction on the axle (usually toward the side to be corrected the most).

Then to correctly set toe, we scribed each tire using a spray can of white paint and a homemade tire scribe I had previously made. Simply spray a strip of paint on each tire's tread while turning the tire, and quickly place the scribe on each strip of paint to cause a perfectly straight & very narrow mark around the circumference of each tire.

We measured across from mark to mark on first the front of the tires then again on the rear of the tires. We then set our pushing apparatus up in the appropriate direction needed to set toe correctly. Since the trailer was equipped with bias ply tires, we simply bent the axle the small amount needed to cause the toe amount to be 1/16-1/8 inch positive. This means that the difference in measurement across the front of the tires versus the measurement across the rear of the tires must be between 1/16 inch & 1/8 inch with the shortest measurement toward the front of the trailer. Radial ply tires require a smaller amount of positive toe than bias ply tires do for optimal tire wear. Slightly positive (1.32 inch) to 1/16 inch would be preferable for radial ply tires.

Of course we double checked our camber settings before we called the job finished, then turned the trailer upright again. Total cost of this repair: Maybe 3-5 cents for the paint used! Cost of replacing the axle: $250.00 and up.

Cracked trailer frame repair

Fri 29 May 2009 2:22:00 PM GMT

Recently a customer (potential customer at the time of contact) sent me an email asking a question about trailer cracked frame repair. In his email, he didn't elaborate on the exact location of the crack in the frame but just said it was in the lower flange and web area.

I answered his email with the email that follows:

“Trailer & tractor frame repair is very different especially where cracked rails are concerned. Tractor cracked rail repair is relatively simple (lots of work, but simple) partially because the rails are made from channel type semi hardened metal and each rail is more or less perfectly straight. This repair is accomplished by supporting the frame evenly & straight, welding the crack back up, then drilling and bolting in a piece of frame rail or bought repair kit to the inside of both rails at the same proximity.

On the other hand, trailer rails are made from I-beam type metal and are arched so that the middle of the trailer is higher than each end (for heavy load carrying on long rails). The use of aluminum compounds the problem in most cases too. Some heavy duty equipment must be utilized but, depending on the exact location of the crack and severity of any lost arch, may be optional as to exactly what that equipment could or should be.

Both steel and aluminum frame rails can be welded but the arch must be restored evenly before welding and maintained during welding. The arch can be restored in steel trailers by simply cold bending to a certain degree (if the arch is minimally reduced). If the arch is greatly reduced in a steel trailer, an upside down V must sometimes be cut out of both rails at the center of the normal arch then the arch restored and the upside down V welded back up (upside down V should be closed up by restoration of the arch at this point). Penetration of the welds must completely through the metal so V the weld points with a grinder or cutting torch (plasma torch works best on aluminum).

The repair is similar with aluminum trailers, but the aluminum that is to be bent must be heated to a certain temp range and then the arch restored immediately while the aluminum is at that certain temp.

To add strength at any welds, simply grind the repair welds flat then weld a diamond shaped piece of metal over the repair welds. When adding these diamond shaped pieces of metal, any added to one rail must also be added to the opposite rail in the same proximity to make the strength of the two rails the same.

A good wheel alignment should top off any frame repair.

I certainly hope this short version of an explanation helps you either in your attempt to do the repair or helps in choosing who to use to help you with the repair and/or equipment choices.”

Well, after he read this email, he called on the phone and the conversation was more specific as to location of the crack. Turns out the crack was in the area of the suspension so there was no issue with lost arch.

To make things short, we discussed his options for repair where I suggested welding up the crack, like I talked about in my email, then welding a diamond shaped plate over this welded up crack, etc. He asked if the book “Tire trouble? Handling problems?” would help him do the repair himself, and my response was, yes it would certainly be good reference material for this frame repair plus the other money saving info the book provides for both truck and trailer maintenance & repair. He ordered the book off this website!

If he follows the advice contained in the book, he will save hundreds short term and thousands long termed. The book will enable him to correctly make repairs & maintenance to the “dirty side” of his rig himself and/or limit commercial shop involvement. Enlightenment alone tends to save money on any large or small vehicle.

Our world of non life & property protection-ability

Sat 2 Aug 2008 5:31:33 PM GMT

It seems as more time passes and laws are written, the more we all loose the ability to protect life, well being and property. I am old enough to remember a time when all these could be protected by force if necessary, or at least protected better than now days.

You know, the Constitution gave us the guarantee of life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness, and then gave us the tools by which to accomplish just that. Over time our rights have been eroded even to the point of the inability to protect even our lives and the lives of family and friends. These rights have not been taken away by the action of law abiding citizens but by lawmakers and courts. These days a criminal often has more rights than an ordinary law abiding citizen, and the real bad part is, they also are in a better position to gain support from courts and the current law.

Injustice comes in many forms. The current laws are largely an injustice to law abiding people in altogether too many instances, but with the ruling by the Supreme Court on the DC gun ban and most states now provide for concealed carry of firearms, a reversal of sorts is in the works.

The Supreme Court's ruling on the wording of the Second Amendment in this case was not complete enough however. Their ruling basically only dealt with the “keep” word and did not deal so much with the “bear” word. To keep arms means to possess arms and bear arms means carry arms. Two distinct different meanings, but both words appear in the Second Amendment in the same context! If indeed a right to “keep” or possess a firearm exists, a right to “bear” or carry a firearm must also exist because the Second Amendment states that “, the right of the people to keep and bear arms must not be infringed.

I think they were hoping to dump the bear or carry burden on the cities and states but then it was the Constitution that governs the Federal Govt. they were ruling on, not any state or city constitution. Every city, county and state located in the USA at the time of the first statehood and every state and subsequently every city and county in those states who enjoyed statehood afterward, had to agree to abide by the Constitution of the United States.

Seems to me that thousands of gun laws are therefore null and void!

A little on alternate fuels

Wed 30 Apr 2008 5:21:30 PM GMT

I have been deep into alternative fuels and fuel enhancers to extend the mileage on gasoline and diesel engines. I even bought a cheap car to experiment on myself.

I have come to realize that electric powered cars are feasible but not with the technology many auto manufacturers are using as recharging is largely dependant upon the current electric grid. When electricity is made at the power plants, there is possibly the expulsion of just as much anti-green emissions as there is with ordinary gasoline or diesel. As of now, the cost associated with recharging the batteries on an electric car may be less than powering the car with gasoline but what about the future? What about the cost of these electric cars? $50,000-$100,000 for one of these cars make purchasing one of them out of reach of many in the population of the world, especially when you consider that trade-in values of their old car is likely to be deminished or nill.

On-going research in electric powered vehicles is very important to continue but with a different twist from using the electric grid for recharging. Some sort of on-board electricity generating capability, like fuel cells and such, must be incorporated into the car for them to be truly feasible. Such vehicles are being built on a research scale but are currently (and for the foreseeable future) very cost prohibitive.

Alcohol, methanol and hydrogen powered vehicles are sure to be the next big push because these fuels can be used in the current engines with only a little modification. This would put these alternative fuels within the scope of use for everyone without necessarily replacing their car or truck.

I think the most exciting prospect is hydrogen. The by-products of burning hydrogen are harmless to the atmosphere and hydrogen is one of, if not the, most abundant element on our planet. Hydrogen powered vehicles, using ordinary current production internal combustion engines, have been and are continuing to be developed. There are thousands of people involved in these vehicles in one capacity or the other. Hydrogen boosted large diesel engines is reportedly possible with fuel mileages that are dramatically enhanced. Environmentally detrimental emissions from hydrogen boosted engines are reportedly reduced more too.

Some good websites where you can learn more are appearing or are gaining recognition (I don't in any way endorse any websites on these subjects because I need to see successful results instead of reading about successful results-but then again, how do you see if you don't first learn?). For example, very good research material for purchase can be found at www.knowledgepublications.com/ , just be careful of your purchases (in other words, don't get buy crazy and buy something you don't need). If you go at it with the mindset of learning about things such as alcohol, hydrogen, solar, etc. instead of an overnite miracle fuel for the gasoline/diesel price crunch we are currently experiencing, this is a good starting point. If you go at it with any motive other than learning, you will likely be dissappointed because some of these things are still in the infant stages.

If my own research turns up something worthy of passing along to you, I will post it or even write an ebook about it and offer it on this site. You can rest assured that anything I write about will be as genuine and true as I know how to make it.

Basic anatomy of an electrical relay-automotive

Mon 21 Jan 2008 6:06:45 PM GMT

Basic anatomy of an electrical relay-automotive Also appeared on http://hastprotruckscom.blogspot.com

People are often confused by a relay and most importantly it's function and intended purpose. A relay is simply a switch like a toggle switch, but instead of manually toggling the switch, a relay uses electrical connections other than the "load" circuit to do the switching. These electrical connections are to an electromagnet which pulls the "load" contact points together when the electromagnet is energized. When the "load" points make contact, current can then flow through the "load" circuit.

The 5 prong relay is a relatively simple example. On one prong is the load's supply wire from either a positive electrical source or it could simply be to a good ground (providing a ground or negative connection instead of a positive connection). The corresponding prong is connected to the load (ie electrical motor, solenoid or other loads).

An entirely different circuit is then used to accomplish the switching action (electromagnet energizing circuit). This circuit is electrically separated from the load circuit. It consists of a good ground from the appropriate prong on the relay to the actual grounding location. The opposite prong on the relay is then connected to an electrical supply that is either a key operated positive supply or may be a supply generated by the action of another switching action of a related accessory. For simplicity we will call that positive and negative connection the "trigger" supply.

This "trigger" circuit can be negatively controlled if desired, but most of the time it is positively controlled. For simplicity we will use the positively controlled relay for further explanation.

When electrical current flows to the "trigger" prong on the relay (which necessitates utilization of the ground or negative connection), it causes a switching action to occur inside the relay by energizing the electromagnet which in turn turns on the "load" circuit. This "trigger" circuit is a low amperage circuit meaning it is more friendly to actual connecting or activating items like the key switch or switch associated with another accessory other than the "load" circuit. The "load" circuit is normally a relatively high amperage circuit.

The "trigger" circuit can also use smaller wires since it is a low amperage circuit unlike the "load" circuit which must use larger wires and has larger amperage requirements. Smaller wires and low amperage are imperative in computer connections and to increase the life of such things as wiper switches, light switches, etc. Smaller wires with smaller amperages are also less prone to electrical fire danger too.

If you find two fuses in the fuse panel that have the same basic label, the one with the smallest amperage rated fuse is on the "trigger" circuit and the high amperage fuse is on the "load" circuit.

Of course, larger vehicles like class 8 trucks often have their left and right headlamp circuits isolated from each other. That is primarily for safety reasons since one circuit can fail but the other stays functional. In that case, the fuses (or breakers) and relays are labeled "left headlamp" and "right headlamp".

More complicated relays are often found in todays cars and trucks which are capable of performing multiple tasks and/or controlling more than one load. These relays still function by the same principles as the simple 5 prong relay but can be configured to work on both the positive "triggering" and negative "triggering" circuits in the same relay.

Article: How to diagnose suspension problems-The End

Thu 20 Dec 2007 3:23:16 AM GMT

Article: How to diagnose suspension problems An article written by Jerry Hastings for www.Helium.com

Continued from previous blog...

The allowable amount of slack in a particular component depends on the exact component. Generally speaking, there must not be very much or no slack observable in any suspension component because movement promotes additional wear and could be a potentially dangerous situation waiting for time to present itself.

There are way too many suspension problem diagnosis techniques and fixes to include them all in depth in a single article. Volumes of repair manuals and books are written on these subjects, Anyone interested in vehicle suspensions should certainly read up on the subject well, before attempting any repair themselves.

An example of one of these books is my ebook for medium and heavy trucks. Many of the topics discussed can be applied to regular cars and trucks too. A repair manual, especially about the vehicle being dealt with, should round off the information aspect of vehicle maintenance. Repair manuals normally do not include a real technician's input and sense of direction, however.

Remember, suspension repair and diagnosis must be done while the vehicle is kept secured from falling and also remember spring tension can be deadly. Most suspension repair is an area for a professional or at least a well versed and informed do it yourself person.

End of article: How to diagnose suspension problems

Article:How to diagnoes suspension problems-Continued...

Thu 20 Dec 2007 3:20:38 AM GMT

Article: How to diagnose suspension problems An article written by Jerry Hastings for www.Helium.com

Continued from previous blog...

While large differences in an A-frame or straight front axle and a strut type front suspension exists, many of these suggestions will also apply to strut types. The front spring and strut are an assembly and therefore must be diagnosed as such. Check for abnormal slack in much the same way as used on ball joints.

Straight front axles with kingpins must be checked in two directions for slack. Jack the vehicle up securely (normally a large vehicle weighing many times as much as a small car-jack stands are recommended), then push hard sideways on the top of each tire while observing for any abnormal movement in the kingpin area. Next place a long prybar under the tire and pry upward while observing for any abnormal movement between the axle eye and the spindle.

Excessive slack observed while pushing on the top of the tire is a result of kingpin and bushing wear. Excessive slack while prying up on the tire is a result of bearing or shim wear (bearing between the axle and spindle on the bottom side of the axle and shims between the axle and spindle on the upper side of the axle-the kingpin is through both).

If the vehicle sets lower than it used to or leans to one side, spring fatigue may well be the problem. However, care should be exercised to eliminate frame damage (many cars and light trucks have unibodies-not frames per se). Did some sort of trauma happen to the vehicle or is there door and/or window sealing problems? This could also signal frame or unibody damage.

Unusual tire wear, especially on the front, may be a sign of suspension problems but cannot be depended on exclusively. For instance, wear on the inside of the tires is a sign of excessive ball joint or kingpin wear and resulting slack BUT may be from several other wheel alignment problems instead.

Tire dipping can be a contributing factor of shock problems BUT may also be tire and wheel imbalance or out of roundness. Shimmy in the front is usually from a bent wheel, out of round tire (dipping as a result), extreme tire/wheel imbalance or other out of round causing problems.

Although shocks are lumped into the suspension category, they really are not part of a suspension. They are just another link from the body or frame to the axle or suspension and who's function is to control bounce and/or sway. Problems with shocks are usually self evident. Excessive leaning during turns, excessive vehicle bouncing, clunking noises and more are signals that the shocks need replaced.

Perhaps one of the most ignored areas of a vehicle's suspension is the rear spring eye bushing and pin or the pin hole in the spring hanger as well as loose hanger to frame bolts. Wear and slack in one or more of those areas can cause a myriad of handling or wheel alignment issues. Normally any slack will be back and forth movement at the tire. Check for these problems by chocking the front tires securely, then unlock the brakes and put the transmission in neutral. Next pry forward and rearward at the tire with a pry bar or something, and observe for any movement in these areas. Continued........,

Article: How to diagnose suspension problems-Continued...

Thu 20 Dec 2007 3:16:51 AM GMT

Article: How to diagnose suspension problems An article written by Jerry Hastings for www.Helium.com

Continued from previous blog...

Rear axles on rear driven vehicles sort of fall into the category of suspensions but their role is unique in the scheme of things. Rear axles on front wheel drive vehicles can be considered suspension components but they also provide the link between wheel bearings, hubs and wheels.

When you really want to define the term "suspension", axles of all sorts really do not fit but are in a class by themselves and generally shops and literature recognizes them that way.

Items like tie rods and tie rod ends, idler arms, pitman arms, control arms and other components all the way up to the steering wheel, fall under the classification of steering components exclusively and should not be confused with suspension components.

Slack in these steering components can best be found by leaving the vehicle weight on the wheels and observing each component while a helper turns the steering wheel slowly back and forth only the amount necessary to cause some movement. Normally slack in steering components can be felt as slack at the steering wheel. If that is the case, turning the steering wheel back an forth only as far as the amount slack present will help locate the source of that slack.

Ball joints and kingpins usually wear to some extent especially if the wrong type of grease is used or the frequency of grease jobs are not adequate enough. Slack results from this wear. A normal cheap real grease is better than a high dollar synthetic grease for these and all suspension and steering components. The only place synthetic grease should be used is in the wheel bearings. I know, the advertisements says this or that but advertisements are sometimes far from reality.

Two people are required for a lot of suspension diagnosis techniques, especially in the absence of specialized equipment. Most of the following require two people. One to provide movement of the part in question and the other to watch the part for any signs of slack.

Upper ball joints are the easier of the two to check for slack. Simply jack the weight off the wheels while a friend observes the movement in the ball joints (other than pivoting movement). Lower ball joints may require a pry bar placed under the wheel while the vehicle is jacked up, and prying upward while observing the lower ball joint for the same type of movement. Continued.....

Article: How to diagnose suspension problems on your vehicle

Thu 20 Dec 2007 2:59:01 AM GMT

The following article must be divided between posts as there's a 1000 character limit to each blog. This article was written on Helium.com by Jerry Hastings and appears on Digg.com. We wanted to present it here for those who don't read Helium or Digg or missed it on those two sites. It may spark questions, ask away.

Article: Written by Jerry Hastings for www.helium.com & also appears on http://hastprotruckscom.blogspot.com, www.diggs.com & www.del.icio.us.com

Realizing that most people will likely be confused by the content of this article, what's real and what's not are two completely different things. First, I'll make an attempt to define the words "vehicle suspension", then I'll go through some of the particulars associated with how to diagnose suspension problems.

There are many different designs or versions of a particular design relating to suspensions that require more specific discussion and I (and I hope readers will) realize that fact. The following is a more or less generalized summary.

Vehicular suspensions are generally the components that your vehicle weight sets on, excluding wheel bearings, hubs and wheels (they are sort of in a class or classes by themselves). Such things as springs and spring hangers, struts, A-frames, kingpins and steering knuckles (or spindles & kingpins on straight front axles) and axles (where applicable) make up a vehicle's suspension.

Components such as ball joints, steering knuckles (or spindles & kingpins)and straight front axles play a dual role in that they are one of the links between the steering and the suspension. They pivot or allow pivoting making them part of the steering and support the vehicles weight making them part of the suspension.

Steering knuckles or spindles with kingpins and straight axles play a different part in steering in that wheel alignment angles are manufactured into these components along with the fact previously noted that they pivot or allow pivoting to turn the front wheels. Plus the wheel bearings, hubs and wheels are attached to these components making yet another link (or links). The additional unadjustable wheel alignment angles provided by these components, enhance steering quality and performance. Continued....

Rules and other important info from the administrator

Sun 9 Dec 2007 10:12:33 PM GMT

We're going to kick off with explaining the purpose and/or matarial content of this forum.

We want to provide customers and visitors to our site the opportunity to discuss or ask questions about our products or services as well as related topics. Ask questions and they will be answered by another visitor or us if possible. Make comments or ask & answer questions either travel related or camping, generators, tire wear, wheel alignment, suspension, steering or some other mechical area related to cars, SUVs & light/medium/heavy trucks. Generally topics sort of revelant to the theme of our site are OK.

We reserve the right and will delete any post or comment using the following guidelines. We intend to allow everyone to contribute, so we will try to go easy on deleting posts before they're allowed. Keep a civil tongue and respect others, other than that, almost anything goes except as outlined below. We will monitor posts and approve posts that are clean (absolutely no sexual or hateful content) and ad free. Have fun!!!

We will generally delete any post wih the following content:

All posts that are sexual in content including drug advertisements such as Viagra etc,
Most advertisement posts with the possible exception of advertisement posts related to this site's theme - this site or this forum is not an advertising outlet except for advertisements approved by the site administrator
Posts that have no real content, constructive comment, or question related to this site or forum - general unrelated questions may or may not be allowed
All posts that are hateful, contain profanity or with negative racial or gender content
All posts that generate broken links on this site
Any post that contains imbedded code
Any post that contains a link or links to to a site or material we object to

Note: This forum is new so it could encounter technical difficulties-Please bear with us and allow us to work any difficulties out if they show up. Email us at support@hastprotrucks.com to alert us if you notice something not working right.