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A little on alternate fuels

Wed, 30 Apr 2008 10:21:30 PDT

I have been deep into alternative fuels and fuel enhancers to extend the mileage on gasoline and diesel engines. I even bought a cheap car to experiment on myself.

I have come to realize that electric powered cars are feasible but not with the technology many auto manufacturers are using as recharging is largely dependant upon the current electric grid. When electricity is made at the power plants, there is possibly the expulsion of just as much anti-green emissions as there is with ordinary gasoline or diesel. As of now, the cost associated with recharging the batteries on an electric car may be less than powering the car with gasoline but what about the future? What about the cost of these electric cars? $50,000-$100,000 for one of these cars make purchasing one of them out of reach of many in the population of the world, especially when you consider that trade-in values of their old car is likely to be deminished or nill.

On-going research in electric powered vehicles is very important to continue but with a different twist from using the electric grid for recharging. Some sort of on-board electricity generating capability, like fuel cells and such, must be incorporated into the car for them to be truly feasible. Such vehicles are being built on a research scale but are currently (and for the foreseeable future) very cost prohibitive.

Alcohol, methanol and hydrogen powered vehicles are sure to be the next big push because these fuels can be used in the current engines with only a little modification. This would put these alternative fuels within the scope of use for everyone without necessarily replacing their car or truck.

I think the most exciting prospect is hydrogen. The by-products of burning hydrogen are harmless to the atmosphere and hydrogen is one of, if not the, most abundant element on our planet. Hydrogen powered vehicles, using ordinary current production internal combustion engines, have been and are continuing to be developed. There are thousands of people involved in these vehicles in one capacity or the other. Hydrogen boosted large diesel engines is reportedly possible with fuel mileages that are dramatically enhanced. Environmentally detrimental emissions from hydrogen boosted engines are reportedly reduced more too.

Some good websites where you can learn more are appearing or are gaining recognition (I don't in any way endorse any websites on these subjects because I need to see successful results instead of reading about successful results-but then again, how do you see if you don't first learn?). For example, very good research material for purchase can be found at www.knowledgepublications.com/ , just be careful of your purchases (in other words, don't get buy crazy and buy something you don't need). If you go at it with the mindset of learning about things such as alcohol, hydrogen, solar, etc. instead of an overnite miracle fuel for the gasoline/diesel price crunch we are currently experiencing, this is a good starting point. If you go at it with any motive other than learning, you will likely be dissappointed because some of these things are still in the infant stages.

If my own research turns up something worthy of passing along to you, I will post it or even write an ebook about it and offer it on this site. You can rest assured that anything I write about will be as genuine and true as I know how to make it.

Basic anatomy of an electrical relay-automotive

Mon, 21 Jan 2008 10:06:45 PST

Basic anatomy of an electrical relay-automotive Also appeared on http://hastprotruckscom.blogspot.com

People are often confused by a relay and most importantly it's function and intended purpose. A relay is simply a switch like a toggle switch, but instead of manually toggling the switch, a relay uses electrical connections other than the "load" circuit to do the switching.

The 5 prong relay is a simple example. On one prong is the load's supply wire from either a positive electrical source or it could simply be to a good ground (providing a ground or negative connection instead of a positive connection). The corresponding prong is connected to the load (ie electrical motor, solenoid or other loads).

An entirely different circuit is then used to accomplish the switching action. This circuit is electrically separated from the load circuit. It consists of a good ground from the appropriate prong on the relay to the actual grounding location. The opposite prong on the relay is then connected to an electrical supply that is either a key operated positive supply or may be a supply generated by the action of another switching action of a related accessory. For simplicity we will call that positive and negative connection the "trigger" supply.

This "trigger" circuit can be negatively controlled if desired, but most of the time it is positively controlled. For simplicity we will use the positively controlled relay for further explanation.

When electrical current flows to the "trigger" prong on the relay (which necessitates utilization of the ground or negative connection), it causes a switching action to occur inside the relay which turns on the "load" circuit. This "trigger" circuit is a low amperage circuit meaning it is more friendly to actual connecting or activating items like the key switch or switch associated with another accessory than the "load" circuit. The "load" circuit is a relatively high amperage circuit.

The "trigger" circuit can also use smaller wires since it is a low amperage circuit unlike the "load" circuit which must use larger wires and larger amperage requirements. Smaller wires and low amperage are imperative in computer connections, wiper switches, light switches, etc.

If you find two fuses in the fuse panel that have the same label, the one with the smallest amperage rated fuse is on the "trigger" circuit and the high amperage fuse is on the "load" circuit.

Of course, larger vehicles like class 8 trucks often have their left and right headlamp circuits isolated from each other. That is primarily for safety reasons since one circuit can fail but the other stays functional. In that case, the fuses (or breakers) and relays are labeled "left headlamp" and "right headlamp".

More complicated relays are often found in todays cars and trucks which are capable of performing multiple tasks and/or controlling more than one load. These relays still function by the same principles as the simple 5 prong relay but can be configured to work on both the positive "triggering" and negative "triggering" circuits in the same relay.

Article: How to diagnose suspension problems-The End

Wed, 19 Dec 2007 19:23:16 PST

Article: How to diagnose suspension problems An article written by Jerry Hastings for www.Helium.com

Continued from previous blog...

The allowable amount of slack in a particular component depends on the exact component. Generally speaking, there must not be very much or no slack observable in any suspension component because movement promotes additional wear and could be a potentially dangerous situation waiting for time to present itself.

There are way too many suspension problem diagnosis techniques and fixes to include them all in depth in a single article. Volumes of repair manuals and books are written on these subjects, Anyone interested in vehicle suspensions should certainly read up on the subject well, before attempting any repair themselves.

An example of one of these books is my ebook for medium and heavy trucks. Many of the topics discussed can be applied to regular cars and trucks too. A repair manual, especially about the vehicle being dealt with, should round off the information aspect of vehicle maintenance. Repair manuals normally do not include a real technician's input and sense of direction, however.

Remember, suspension repair and diagnosis must be done while the vehicle is kept secured from falling and also remember spring tension can be deadly. Most suspension repair is an area for a professional or at least a well versed and informed do it yourself person.

End of article: How to diagnose suspension problems

Article:How to diagnoes suspension problems-Continued...

Wed, 19 Dec 2007 19:20:38 PST

Article: How to diagnose suspension problems An article written by Jerry Hastings for www.Helium.com

Continued from previous blog...

While large differences in an A-frame or straight front axle and a strut type front suspension exists, many of these suggestions will also apply to strut types. The front spring and strut are an assembly and therefore must be diagnosed as such. Check for abnormal slack in much the same way as used on ball joints.

Straight front axles with kingpins must be checked in two directions for slack. Jack the vehicle up securely (normally a large vehicle weighing many times as much as a small car-jack stands are recommended), then push hard sideways on the top of each tire while observing for any abnormal movement in the kingpin area. Next place a long prybar under the tire and pry upward while observing for any abnormal movement between the axle eye and the spindle.

Excessive slack observed while pushing on the top of the tire is a result of kingpin and bushing wear. Excessive slack while prying up on the tire is a result of bearing or shim wear (bearing between the axle and spindle on the bottom side of the axle and shims between the axle and spindle on the upper side of the axle-the kingpin is through both).

If the vehicle sets lower than it used to or leans to one side, spring fatigue may well be the problem. However, care should be exercised to eliminate frame damage (many cars and light trucks have unibodies-not frames per se). Did some sort of trauma happen to the vehicle or is there door and/or window sealing problems? This could also signal frame or unibody damage.

Unusual tire wear, especially on the front, may be a sign of suspension problems but cannot be depended on exclusively. For instance, wear on the inside of the tires is a sign of excessive ball joint or kingpin wear and resulting slack BUT may be from several other wheel alignment problems instead.

Tire dipping can be a contributing factor of shock problems BUT may also be tire and wheel imbalance or out of roundness. Shimmy in the front is usually from a bent wheel, out of round tire (dipping as a result), extreme tire/wheel imbalance or other out of round causing problems.

Although shocks are lumped into the suspension category, they really are not part of a suspension. They are just another link from the body or frame to the axle or suspension and who's function is to control bounce and/or sway. Problems with shocks are usually self evident. Excessive leaning during turns, excessive vehicle bouncing, clunking noises and more are signals that the shocks need replaced.

Perhaps one of the most ignored areas of a vehicle's suspension is the rear spring eye bushing and pin or the pin hole in the spring hanger as well as loose hanger to frame bolts. Wear and slack in one or more of those areas can cause a myriad of handling or wheel alignment issues. Normally any slack will be back and forth movement at the tire. Check for these problems by chocking the front tires securely, then unlock the brakes and put the transmission in neutral. Next pry forward and rearward at the tire with a pry bar or something, and observe for any movement in these areas. Continued........,

Article: How to diagnose suspension problems-Continued...

Wed, 19 Dec 2007 19:16:51 PST

Article: How to diagnose suspension problems An article written by Jerry Hastings for www.Helium.com

Continued from previous blog...

Rear axles on rear driven vehicles sort of fall into the category of suspensions but their role is unique in the scheme of things. Rear axles on front wheel drive vehicles can be considered suspension components but they also provide the link between wheel bearings, hubs and wheels.

When you really want to define the term "suspension", axles of all sorts really do not fit but are in a class by themselves and generally shops and literature recognizes them that way.

Items like tie rods and tie rod ends, idler arms, pitman arms, control arms and other components all the way up to the steering wheel, fall under the classification of steering components exclusively and should not be confused with suspension components.

Slack in these steering components can best be found by leaving the vehicle weight on the wheels and observing each component while a helper turns the steering wheel slowly back and forth only the amount necessary to cause some movement. Normally slack in steering components can be felt as slack at the steering wheel. If that is the case, turning the steering wheel back an forth only as far as the amount slack present will help locate the source of that slack.

Ball joints and kingpins usually wear to some extent especially if the wrong type of grease is used or the frequency of grease jobs are not adequate enough. Slack results from this wear. A normal cheap real grease is better than a high dollar synthetic grease for these and all suspension and steering components. The only place synthetic grease should be used is in the wheel bearings. I know, the advertisements says this or that but advertisements are sometimes far from reality.

Two people are required for a lot of suspension diagnosis techniques, especially in the absence of specialized equipment. Most of the following require two people. One to provide movement of the part in question and the other to watch the part for any signs of slack.

Upper ball joints are the easier of the two to check for slack. Simply jack the weight off the wheels while a friend observes the movement in the ball joints (other than pivoting movement). Lower ball joints may require a pry bar placed under the wheel while the vehicle is jacked up, and prying upward while observing the lower ball joint for the same type of movement. Continued.....

Article: How to diagnose suspension problems on your vehicle

Wed, 19 Dec 2007 18:59:01 PST

The following article must be divided between posts as there's a 1000 character limit to each blog. This article was written on Helium.com by Jerry Hastings and appears on Digg.com. We wanted to present it here for those who don't read Helium or Digg or missed it on those two sites. It may spark questions, ask away.

Article: Written by Jerry Hastings for www.helium.com & also appears on http://hastprotruckscom.blogspot.com, www.diggs.com & www.del.icio.us.com

Realizing that most people will likely be confused by the content of this article, what's real and what's not are two completely different things. First, I'll make an attempt to define the words "vehicle suspension", then I'll go through some of the particulars associated with how to diagnose suspension problems.

There are many different designs or versions of a particular design relating to suspensions that require more specific discussion and I (and I hope readers will) realize that fact. The following is a more or less generalized summary.

Vehicular suspensions are generally the components that your vehicle weight sets on, excluding wheel bearings, hubs and wheels (they are sort of in a class or classes by themselves). Such things as springs and spring hangers, struts, A-frames, kingpins and steering knuckles (or spindles & kingpins on straight front axles) and axles (where applicable) make up a vehicle's suspension.

Components such as ball joints, steering knuckles (or spindles & kingpins)and straight front axles play a dual role in that they are one of the links between the steering and the suspension. They pivot or allow pivoting making them part of the steering and support the vehicles weight making them part of the suspension.

Steering knuckles or spindles with kingpins and straight axles play a different part in steering in that wheel alignment angles are manufactured into these components along with the fact previously noted that they pivot or allow pivoting to turn the front wheels. Plus the wheel bearings, hubs and wheels are attached to these components making yet another link (or links). The additional unadjustable wheel alignment angles provided by these components, enhance steering quality and performance. Continued....

Rules and other important info from the administrator

Sun, 09 Dec 2007 14:12:33 PST

We're going to kick off with explaining the purpose and/or matarial content of this forum.

We want to provide customers and visitors to our site the opportunity to discuss or ask questions about our products or services as well as related topics. Ask questions and they will be answered by another visitor or us if possible. Make comments or ask & answer questions either travel related or tire wear, wheel alignment, suspension, steering or some other mechical area related to cars, SUVs & light/medium/heavy trucks.

We intend to allow everyone to contribute, so at first we are going to try not to make passwords and specific groups a non-issue (may be forced to change that in the future). Keep a civil tongue and respect others, other than that, almost anything goes. We will monitor posts but will not inject any censurs or restrict it's use to registered members only, unless necessary. We will delete any objectionable posts. Have fun!!!

Note: This forum is new so it could encounter technical difficulties-Please bear with us and allow us to work any difficulties out if they show up. Email us at support@hastprotrucks.com to alert us if you notice something not working right.